Ingredient Guide

P…

Padina pavonicaextract see algae.

Paeonia albiflora root extract is the extract from the root of the peony plant. It has antioxidant properties.
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Palm kernelate is common cleansing agent used in soap.

Palm oil (Elaeis Guineensis Oil) has emollient and antioxidant properties for skin.

Palmitic acid is detergent cleansing agent that can be drying.

Palmitoyl grapevine shoot extract may have some antioxidant properties.

Palmitoyl oligopeptides (Palmitoyl pentapeptide, Matrixyl) is a new amino-peptide. It stimulates collagen, elastin and glucosaminoglycans synthesis. So they should help reduce wrinkles.
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Palmitoyl pentapeptide 3 has trade name Matrixyl, a fatty acid mixed with amino acids. See palmitoyl oligopeptides.

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 is synthetic tripeptide that may stimulate collagen synthesis.

Panax ginseng root extract may have potent antioxidant properties and may promote wound healing.
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Pantethine see pantothenic acid.
Products with this ingredient:

Panthenol is a non-irritating, precursor form of Vitamin B. It can penetrate skin and transform into pantothenic acid (commonly known as Vitamin B5). Panthenol maintains skin water retention and treats minor irritation.

Pantothenic acid is also called vitamin B5. It has emollient and anti-inflammatory properties.
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Panthenyl triacetate is emulsifier.

Papain is the enzyme extracted from papaya. There is one study showed that in pure form papain may be effective for exfoliation. However topical use of papain can cause severe irritation, itching, and allergic reactions.

Papaya extract can be used as exfoliating ingredient but it can also be a skin irritant.

Parabens are group of preservatives, including butylparaben, propylparaben, methylparaben, and ethylparaben, that are the most widely used group of preservatives in cosmetics. It is estimated that more than 90% of all cosmetic products contain some form of paraben. Whether or not it is safe, especially in long term, has not been decided.

Paraffin is waxy, petroleum-based substance used as a thickening agent in cosmetics.

Paraffinum liquidum is mineral oil.
Products with this ingredient: Bio Oil Liquid.

Passiflora incarnata extract is passion fruit extract. No evidence of skin benefits.
Products with this ingredient: Estee Lauder Soft Clean Silky Hydrating Lotion

Patchouli is fragrant oil derived from mint. It can be a skin sensitizer and irritant.

Paullinia cupana seed extract Also called guarana, this extract is used primarily in herbal supplements and beverages as a stimulant. In animal studies (mice), it has been shown to affect fat metabolism. There is also research showing that repeated use of guarana can result in persistent increases in heart rate and blood pressure as well as in unfavorable actions on glucose and potassium homeostasis. Such effects could be detrimental in persons with hypertension, atherosclerosis, or glucose intolerance conditions that are strongly associated with obesity. Guarana is sometimes used in cellulite products because of its theophylline and caffeine components. Research has shown it can be absorbed into the skin. Whether or not topical application can affect fat metabolism or have other associated health risks in humans is not known.
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Pearl powder is a finely milled powder made from freshwater pearls or saltwater pearls. The powder contains a number of amino acids and several minerals. It is used in asian medicine to brighten the skin and minimize pore size.

Pecan oil is nonfragrant emollient plant oil.
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PEG 100 stearate is emollient and lubricant derived from plant.

PEG 200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate is emollient.

PEG 4 is emollient and solvent.

PEG 4 dilaurate and peg-4 laurate are emulsifiers that mix water with oil.

PEG 8 is solvent and humectant that increase the water content of the top layers of the skin by drawing moisture from the surrounding air.

PEG compound PEG stands for polyethylene glycol. Various forms of PEG compounds are mixed with fatty acids and fatty alcohols to create a variety of substances that have diverse functions in cosmetics, including surfactants, binding agents, stabilizers, and emollients.

PEG-150 distearate is thickening agent.

PEG-100 stearate is used as an emollient, an emulsifier and a moisturizer in cosmetics.

PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate is surfactant.

PEG-5 pentaerythrityl ether is used as anti-caking and emollient agent.

PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate is emulsifying surfactant.

Peg-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate is emulsifer.

PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate is emulsifying agent.

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is emollient that is a mixture of polyethylene glycol (PEG) with castor oil.

PEG-60 almond glycerides is emusifier.

PEG-60 glyceryl isostearate is emollient.

PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil is emollient that is a mixture of polyethylene glycol (PEG) with castor oil, but not safe for use on injured or damaged skin.

PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate is solvent, mild surfactant and foaming agent.

PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate is solvent and emulsifer.

PEG-80 sorbitan laurate is mild surfactant.

Pelargonium graveolens oil see geranium oil.

Pelvetia canaliculata extract is extract from the brown seaweed that helps reduce fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating collagen synthesis. It also has antioxidant properties.

Pentadecalactone is synthetic fragrance used in cosmetics.

Pentaerythrityl distearate is emulsifying agent that mixes oil and water.

Pentaerythrityl tetracaprylate/tetracaprate is emollient.

Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate is emulsifier and thickening agent.

Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate is skin softener, emulifier, and surfactant.

Pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate is synthetic compound used as an emollient and thickening agent.

Pentasodium pentetate is used as a chelating agent in cosmetics to prevent various mineral components from binding together and deterioting the formulation.

Pentylene glycol is polyvalent alcohol with a humectant and antibacterial effect.

Peppermint can have antimicrobial properties. It is a mild surfactant and has cooling effect on the skin. But the fragrant component and astrigent properties can be contricting and irritating to skin.

Peptide Peptides are portions of proteins, which are long chains of amino acids. In the body, peptides regulate the activity of many systems by interacting with target cells. Enzymatic action breaks proteins into peptides so they can exert their influence on the body. Some peptides have hormonal activity, others have immune activity, some are cell-communicating ingredients that tell cells how to react and what to do, some are believed to play a role in wound healing, and still others are believed to affect the pathology of skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis and eczema. Whether peptides have benefit when applied topically to skin for wound healing, skin-barrier repair, or as disinfectants is difficult to ascertain because they generally cannot penetrate skin and at the same time remain stable because they are too hydrophilic, or water-loving. Ironically, peptides can become unstable in water-based formulas. Further, because peptides are vulnerable to the presence of enzymes, when peptides are absorbed, the abundant enzymes present in skin can break the peptides down to the point where they have no effect at all. However, the latest research is examining how different types of synthesized peptides can enter the living membrane of cells and, more interesting, transport biologically active ingredients to these cells. Some of these peptides have demonstrated a remarkable anti-inflammatory effect. Creating specific peptide chains in the lab and then attaching a fatty acid component to them allows peptides to overcome their inherent limitations: being absorbed and remaining stable. Lab-engineered peptides appear to have the kind of efficacy and benefit that go beyond the skin's surface, but more conclusive, long-term research is essential to gain an understanding of what, if anything, is really taking place. It is reasonable to assume that as synthetic peptide technology broadens, we will see more options for use in skin-care products promoting anti-aging properties, specifically, tissue regeneration. For these specialized peptides to exert a benefit beyond that of a water-binding agent, three criteria must be met: the peptides must be stable in their base formula, they must be paired with a carrier that enhances absorption into the skin, and they must be able to reach their target cell groups without breaking down. Achieving this goal is no easy feat, but one that cosmetics scientists are predicting will have significant potential in the realm of anti-aging skin-care ingredients. (Reference: Paula's Choice Cosmetics Ingredient Dictionary)

Perilla ocymoides are rich in omega-3 fatty acids so it helps keep skin homeostasis. Perilla oil stimulates collagen and laminin synthesis.
Products with this ingredient: Clinique After-Sun Rescue Balm

Perfluorohexane is proven oxygen "carrier". Perfluorohexane re-oxygenates the cells and removes toxic carbon dioxide through molecule differentiation and substitution. The enriched oxygen transported by the perflurohexane is diffused from a high-pressure region to a low-pressure region. Cleaned of carbon dioxide, the cells are able to recover a natural metabolism and renew their function.

Persea gratissima see avocado.

Petitgrain is bitter orange oil. It is effectly antiseptic and may help with acne. However it can be photosensitive so avoid sun exposure after use.

Petrolatum Vaseline is pure petrolatum. Petrolatum helps skin recover from damage, reduce inflammation, and protect skin against environment.

Peucedanum graveolens (Dill) extract is a relatively new cosmetic ingredient. Dill extract stimulates the activity of the enzyme called Lysyl oxidase-like (LOXL), which is the key element in elastin generation and therefore skin elasticity to delay aging.

Phellodendron bark (Huang-Po) may help reduce skin irritation and inflammation.
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Phenoxyethanol is the aromatic ether alcohol. It is one of the less irritating preservatives used in cosmetic.

Phenyl trimethicone is silicone with a drier finish than dimethicone.

Phenylalanine is antistatic agent.

Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid is used in sun protection products. When it is used in these products it is called Ensulizole.

Phenylethyl resorcinol is also known as SymWhite 377. It has antioxidant properties to lighten and brighten skin. It is considered safe according to limited research.

Phosphatidylcholine is the natural component of cell membrane. Also it is the active ingredient in lecithin. It is considered an excellent water-binding agent and enhances the penetration of other ingredients into skin.
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Phosphoglycerides is liposome used to form water-in-oil complexes.
Products with this ingredient: Estee Lauder Vérité Calming Fluid

Phospholipid is the type of lipids composed of glycerol, fatty acids, and phosphate. Phospholipids are natural constituent of cell membranes and maintain the cellular integrity.

Phyllanthus emblica fruit extract has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
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Physalis alkekengi calyx extract is derived from a plant commonly known as winter berry. It is claimed to filter UVA rays but here is no substantial research to support the claim.
Products with this ingredient: Sisley Daily Line Reducer

Phytantriol has water-binding properties.

Phytic acid is derived from plants and has antioxidant properties.

Phytonadione (vitamin K) improves blood circulation and reduce dark circles.
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Phytosphingosine is fatty alcohol that has water-binding and preservative qualities.

Phytosterol lowers cholesterol when eaten. But topical use can make skin extremely sensitive to sun light due to high lipid content of phytosterols. Avoid daytime use or wear sunscreen.

Phytosteryl macadamiate is extract from Hawaiian macadamia nuts. It is skin emollient.

Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate is protective skin condioner.

Pimpinella anisum (Anise) fruit extract is also known as aniseed. It has potent antioxidant properties.
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Pine oil can have disinfectant properties but it can also be a potent skin irritant. It should never be used on abraded or injured skin.

Pineapple extract exfoliates skin by breaking down the connecting materials between cells.

Pinus pinaster bark extract may have antioxidant effect.
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Pisum sativum is Latin name for the garden pea. It has some antioxidant activity.

Plantago lanceolata leaf extract is a strong astringent and excellent soothing qualities. It may reduce puffiness around the eyes.

Plum extract is derived from prunus americana that may have antioxidant activity.
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Plumeria alba flower extract (Frangipani) is extracted from the Indian Jasmine. It is essential oil.

Pollen extract has emollient, antibiotics and anti-inflammatory properties.

Poloxamer is surfactant.

Polyacrylamide is film-forming agent.

Polyaminopropyl biguanide is preservative.

Polybutene is derived from mineral oil and used as a thickening agent and lubricant.

Polycaprolactone is derived from crude oil. It may have application in supporting skin-tissue growth for the purposes of skin grafts.
Products with this ingredient: L'Oreal Advanced RevitaLift Double Lifting Intense Re-Tightening Gel & Anti-Wrinkle Treatment

Polydecene is synthetic emollient, skin-conditioning agent, and anti-aging agent to reduce wrinkles.

Polyethylene is flexible plastic and has a smooth, waxy feel. It can be used as a gentle abrasive and stablizer and enhances the delivery of other ingredients.

Polygala senega root extract is a refreshing skin conditioner.
Products with this ingredient: Estee Lauder Perfectly Clean Fresh Balancing Lotion

Polyglyceryl methacrylate is film-forming agent.

Polyglyceryl-2 caprate is emulsifier.

Polyglyceryl-10 distearate is hydrophilic, water-binding emusifier.

Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate is emuifier.

Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate see glyceryl ester.

Polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone see silicone.

Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate is emulsifying agent.

Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate is emulsifying agent.

Polyglyceryl-10 stearate is emulsifying agent.

Polygonum cuspidatum root extract is extract of the Japanese knotweed plant. When eaten it may have weak estrogenic activity. It also has antioxidant properties.
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Polyhydroxystearic acid is a suspending agent and emulsifier that is used to stabilize products.

Polyisobutene is synthetic polymer used as a skin-conditioning agent and emollient.

Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) is a suspension of microscopic synthetic polymer beads (microspheres) in a vehicle such as bovine collagen, hyaluronic acid or some other colloidal suspending agent. PMMA can be used to improve the skin's contour and reduce depressions in the skin due to scars, injury or lines. They are used to correct facial lines and features that could have been treated with collagen replacement therapy or hyaluronic therapy.

Polymethylsilsesquioxane is silicone.

Polymnia sonchifolia root juice is botanical additive. It may have antioxidant properties.

Polyphosphorylcholine glycol acrylate is film forming agent.

Polyquaternium-10 is film-forming agent.

Polyquaternium-51 is film-forming agent and emollient.

Polysaccharide is natural component of skin that can be a good water-binding agent and potentially have antioxidant properties.
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Polysorbates are used as emulsifiers in cosmetics and also have mild surfactant properties.

Polyvinyl alcohol is film-forming agent and are usually used in peeled-off facial masks.

Pomegranate extract is an effective anticarcinogen and antioxidant when eaten. But whether the same benefits translate into topical use has not been studied.
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Poria cocos extract is also known as Hoelen and Fu ling. It is derived from a mushroom which has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
Products with this ingredient: Clinique Super City Block Oil-free Daily Face Protector SPF 40

Porphyridium cruentum extract is derived from a type of red algae. The unsaturated fatty acid content may be beneficial in maintaining skin barrier homeostasis.
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Portulaca oleracea extract may have anti-inflammatory or analgesic properties.
Products with this ingredient: Bliss The Youth As We Know It

Potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate is blend of vitamins C and E that are potent antioxidants.
Products with this ingredient:

Potassium behenate is surfactant.

Potassium cetyl phosphate is used as a detergent cleansing agent.

Potassium chloride functions as a viscosity increasing agent.

Potassium cocoyl glycinate is a mild cleansing agent derived from glycine and coconut.

Potassium gluconate is an emulsifying salt.

Potassium hydroxide is used in cosmetics as pH adjuster. But it's a strong chemical and potent skin irritant that may cause burning sensation.

Potassium isostearate is emollient and emulsifying agent.

Potassium lactate is the potassium salt of lactic acid.

Potassium laurate is an emulsifier and surfactant.

Potassium myristate is a surfactant cleansing agent that is often a constituent of soap. it can be drying and sensitizing for some skin types.

Potassium myristoyl glutamate is an emulsifier.

Potassium palmitate is a thickening agent.

Potassium phosphate is detergent cleansing agent.

Potassium sorbate is preservative.

Potassium stearate is an emulsifier and surfactant.

Potassium sulfate is a thickening and viscosity controlling agent.

Potentilla erecta root extract has skin protective properties.
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Poterium officinale root extract is derived from the garden burnet plant. It has similar properties as sanguisorba officinalis.

PPG-12 buteth-16 is a skin-conditioning agent, emulsifier, solvent, and surfactant.

PPG-12/smdi copolymer is a skin conditioning agent.

PPG-13 decyltetradeceth-24 is an emulsifier and stablizing agent.

PPG-9 diglyceryl ether is a synthetic compound derived from methyl oxirane (propylene oxide), a petroleum product and glycerin. It is used in cosmetics as emollient.

PPG-15 stearyl ether has lubricating properties that leaves skin soft and smooth.

PPG-2 hydroxyethyl cocamide is a foaming agent and solvent.

PPG-2 hydroxyethyl coco/isostearamide is a foaming agent and solvent.

PPG-3 myristyl ether neoheptanoate is solvent and thickening agent.

PPG-2 myristyl ether propionate is a skin-conditioning and thickening agent. At large concentration it can cause skin irritation.

PPG-26-buteth-26 may have function as a anti-static and emulsifer agent.

PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate is plastificer that provides a smooth feeling similar to silicone.

PPG-5 ceteth 20 is an emulsifying agent and surfactant.

Pregnenolone acetate is pre-hormones. When digested it affects progesterone and estrogen level in the body. Whether it can be absorbed through the skin has not been researched. It may work as a water-binding agent.
Products with this ingredient: Revlon Eterna '27' Moisture Cream with Progenitin, Jar

Primula veris (primrose) extract may have antioxidant properties but there is no evidence of skin benefit.

Prolinamidoethyl imidazole is the amino acid proline.

Propanediol is used in cosmetics in the form of aminomethyl propanol or aminomethyl propanediol. The safety concentration is up to 7% and 2%, respectively. They are used a pH adjusters.

Propyl gallate is an anti-oxidant and preservative.

Propylene carbonate is used as a solvent and film-forming agent.

Propylene glycol alginate is a thickening agent and viscosity controlling agent.

Propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate is a surfactant and emollient.

Propylene glycol is derived from petroleum and used in cosmetics as solvents, surfactants, and wetting agents. It is used to enhance ingredient penetration and as a humidifying agent. It is easily absorbed through skin and is a potent skin irritant. PG could provoke skin irritation and sensitization at concentration as low as 2%. In fact U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has issued a warning to avoid skin contact to prevent brain, liver, and kidney abnormalities.

Prunus amygdalus amara kernel oil (Bitter almond) bitter almond oil should not be used for cosmetics because it contains traces of amygdalin which is cytotoxic, meaning it will kill cells. Amygdalin is not present in sweet almond oil.
Products with this ingredient: Murad Resurgence Age-Diffusing Serum

Prunus armeniaca kernel oil is apricot seed oil. It is a natural nonfragrant emollient oil.
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Prunus avium (Sweet cherry) fruit extract may reverse free radical damage.
Products with this ingredient: Decleor Expression de L'Age Radiance Smoothing Cream

Prunus domestica seed extract see plum extract.
Products with this ingredient:

Prunus persica (Peach) fruit extract has moisturizing and mild abrasive properties.

Pseudoalteromonas ferment extract has excellent spreadibility on skin that prevents moisture loss and protects skin from extreme weather.
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PTFE/Teflon is the non-sticky material widely used in cookwares. It is stable under even extremely high heat. Whether or not it is not harmful when applied topically is not fully understood. It may be used in skin care products to impart smooth feeling.

Pueraria lobata see kudzu root.

Pullulan is produced by black yeast that has good water-binding and antioxidant properties.
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Pumice is used as abrasive and viscosity controlling agent.

Pumpkin (Cucurbita pepo) seed oil is rich in protein, zinc and polyunsaturated fatty acids. It is used in cosmetics as a conditioning agent and may have wrinkle-correcting properties.
Products with this ingredient: Avene Cleanance Soap-free Facial Gel Cleanser

Punica granatum extract see pomegranate extract.
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PVM/Ma copolymerare clear viscous liquids. They dry to form a thin coating on the skin, hair, or nails.

PVP stands for polyvinylpyrrolidone. It is used as a film forming agent but may cause skin sensitization.

Pyridoxine hydrochloride (HCL) is the chemical name for vitamin B6. It may have antibacterial and antioxidant benefits for skin.
Products with this ingredient: PerriconeMD Age Less - Neuropeptide Firming Moisturizer

Pyrus cydonia see quince seed.

Pyrus malus is one type of apple. The extract is used as a thickening agent and pH adjuster.
Products with this ingredient: