I am torn. On one hand I am very impressed with this product for its richly moisturizng and antioxidant formula. On the other hand I am put off by its longer than usual irritants list.
There are so many ingredients in this cream that are excellent moisturizing factors. For example,
1. Olive oil is nonfragrant emollient oil and an excellent antioxidant. It may also protect against UVB damage.
2. Squalane is oil derived from shark liver or olives. It is a natural component of skin as a good emollient that has antioxidant properties.
3. Ceramides are major structural constituents of skin barrier and therefore important for skin water-retention.
4. Soy protein actively protects against free radicals. So it's a potent anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory agent. It also stimulates collagent production and affects skin thickness and elasticity.
5. Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is a component of skin tissue that is used in skin-care products as a good water-binding agent.
Also impressive, this product includes many amino acids and peptides. These are the building blocks for proteins such as collagen and elastin. Even though supplying amino acids directly to skin has minimal chance of really turning into proteins, they have proven excellent water-binding properties.
Another worth-mentioning ingredient is xylitylglucoside. It is a naturally-derived ingredient from the sugars found in wheat and wood cellulose. It has been shown to dramatically improve the epidermal water content by increasing the skin’s dermal water reservoirs (GAGs: glycosaminoglycans). Stimulation of GAGs synthesis (hyaluronic acid and chondroitine sulphate) on fibroblasts is significant. Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) is decreased as well. It also shows improvement of the barrier function increasing ceramide synthesis. The effects are shown to be immediate and long-term.
In the same category is polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA). This is a suspension of microscopic synthetic polymer beads (microspheres) in a vehicle such as bovine collagen, hyaluronic acid or some other colloidal suspending agent. PMMA can be used to improve the skin's contour and reduce depressions in the skin due to scars, injury or lines. They are used to correct facial lines and features that could have been treated with collagen replacement therapy or hyaluronic therapy.
Now for the BAD ingredients...In addition to unnecessarily abundant fragrance and two questionable preservatives, I am most worried about two, propylene glycol (PG) and triethanolamine (TEA). PG is derived from petroleum and used in cosmetics as solvents mostly. The problem with PG is that it is easily absorbed through skin and is a potent skin irritant. PG could provoke skin irritation and sensitization at concentration as low as 2%. PG being the fourth abundant ingredient makes me worry about how likely it will cause problem. In fact U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has issued a warning to avoid PG skin contact to prevent brain, liver, and kidney abnormalities. One can only hope the concentration in this product is not high enough to be of concerns.
The problem with TEA is that like all amines, it has the potential for creating nitrosamines. It may or may not. There is no way of knowing, at least without a well-equipped chemistry lab. But it will be really bad if it does. Nitrosamines are readily absorbed through skin and they have been proved to be strong carcinogen. Whether or not the concentrations used in cosmetics should be of concern is still a matter of debate.
Safety alert: Elevated
review based on scientific information of the product ingredients.
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