This is a peptide-intensive anti-wrinkle treatment. The second abundant ingredient being shea butter makes it a moisturizer for dry and aging skin, not for young and usually oily skin.
Kinetin is an ingredient often seen in Kinerase products. It is a plant hormone responsible for cell turnover in vitro, trade name N6-furfuryladenine. Although the benefits of topical use has not been fully invesigated, it may have anti-aging effect including reducing wrinkles, offsetting sun damage, reducing surfaced capillaries.
Acetyl hexapeptide-3 is synthetical peptide that may relax muscles to reduce the appearance of expression lines, similar to Botox. But some subsequent studies showed it's far less effective than Botox. Acetyl octapeptide-3 is also known as SNAP-8. It works similarly with acetyl hexapeptide-3 but is reported to be more effective.
There are rich content of peptides that enhance collagen and elastin production. Tripeptide-10 citrulline mimics the collagen-production promoter, decorin, to stimulate the collagen production. Peucedanum graveolens (Dill) extract is a relatively new cosmetic ingredient. Dill extract stimulates the activity of the enzyme called Lysyl oxidase-like (LOXL), which is the key element in elastin generation and therefore skin elasticity to delay aging.
Two ingredients turn on the alarm. Propylene glycol (PG) appeared early in the ingredient list. PG is derived from petroleum and used in cosmetics as solvents, surfactants, and wetting agents. It is used to enhance ingredient penetration and as a humidifying agent. It is easily absorbed through skin and is a potent skin irritant. PG could provoke skin irritation and sensitization at concentration as low as 2%. In fact U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has issued a warning to avoid skin contact to prevent brain, liver, and kidney abnormalities. The other ingredient, triethanolamine is used in cosmetics as a pH balancer. Like all amines, it has the potential for creating nitrosamines. Nitrosamines are readily absorbed through skin and they have been proved to be strong carcinogen. Whether or not the concentrations used in cosmetics should be of concern is still a matter of debate. Better avoid if possible. It is one of the last few ingredients. Hope the concentration will not be high enough to cause concerns.
Safety alert: Cautious
review based on scientific information of the product ingredients.
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